Moharram: There Is Never Too Much Of Nazri

I know, I have already written about it on the blog a couple of years ago, but every time I see it I just can`t keep silent! Yes, I`m talking about nazri and people`s excitement about getting more of it.

Let me first remind you what nazri is. It`s food (or drinks or snacks) given out for free by people for various reasons. Some give out food to thank God for something, some - for the memory of Imam Hossein, while others - just to keep a tradition. I have written more about nazri in this post.

Moharram. The Time for Mourning: The Day of Ashura

Mourning in moharram reaches its culmination on the 10^th day of moharram which is known as Ashura. On this day since morning people either take part or just watch mourning processions in the streets of Tehran. The procession starts with boys carrying flags with writings about Imam Hossein. They are followed by “alams” which are the central part of the whole ceremony and draw all people`s attention. “Alam” is a huge and heavy metal thing covered with feathers, metal figures of birds, lions and deer, every element of which symbolizes something. Although “alam” is extremely heavy, it`s carried by only one person who wears a special belt to help him carry it.

“Alams” are made in different size. The smaller ones like the one below, are meant for young boys.

You can see more photos of alams on my Tumblr blog at http://strangerintehran.tumblr.com !

The “alams” are then followed by people (men and boys actually) who beat themselves with a bunch of chains in a special rhythmic way that rhymes with the “nouheh” (a religious mourning song) that is broadcasted through huge speakers following the procession. Although the beating is symbolic, your shoulders will hurt after several hours.

Then sometimes come different symbols of the Ashura tragedy like the model of Imam Hossein`s shrine, a cradle of Ali Asghar (Imam Hossein`s baby son who was also cruelly killed), the torn hand of Abbas, a corpse without a head, sometimes even actors playing parts of Shemr and Imam Hossein`s followers or a camel that instead of reminding people of the tragedy, gives small children a ride.

These mourning processions are very different and they depend on the “heyat” they are organized by (“heyat” is a place that organizes mourning ceremonies during moharram and gives out free food, remember?). Some “heyats” are formed by people from other provinces, so their mourning ceremony is held right like in their hometown.

Spectators are kept full and warm during the processions. On the streets you can find numerous places spreading warm milk or tea, sweets and food.

The main thing I`d like to say about Ashura is that lots of foreigners living in Tehran try to spend this day at home in fear. But I suggest you go out and experience it once. Iranians will be happy to let people know more about culture and won`t mind presence of foreigners on these processions. The whole ceremony is just a symbol, people don`t go crazy on it and attack others or hurt themselves – they just show their grief in symbolic acts. Moreover, lots of people come to the streets on that day just to take some nice pictures, have some warm drinks and just have some time out! So don`t be afraid to be one of them!)

More pictures on Ashura in my post “Ashura in faces” at http://strangerintehran.tumblr.com !

There are lots of things that can be told about Ashura that cannot be covered in this post, so please, don`t hesitate to ask your questions, and I`ll be happy to help!)

Moharram. The time for mourning: Food

Food is an inseparable part of any Iranian holiday, festival or even the day of mourning! And moharram is no exception. During the first ten days of moharram after the evening prayer (i.e. after sunset) in the streets of Tehran you can see numerous tents where you can get tea with sugar, dates or sweets absolutely for free.

Some people, who are patient enough, visit so-called “heyats” where a mullah tells the story of Ashura and then the attendees get free food. 

When a family gets into trouble, for example, a child gets sick badly, the family prays and promises to God that if the child gets well, they will give free food to people during the first 10 days of moharram for like 10 years or even more. Some, not-so-well-off people promise to give tea or something. Sometimes several people open up a tent, but any of them has to buy the tea and everything just for one night.

But some people are trying to get advantage of this. During these 10 days they line up in front of “heyats” waiting for free food to come. Some of them don`t even take a trouble to attend the praying part. Others bring pots if “ash” (Iranian kind of soup) is given out. On the last day of mourning (the day of Ashura) which is the culmination of the whole event, at lunch time you can see lines of 20, 30 or even 50 people waiting for food. And be sure they are not homeless or poor or anything like that. 

It was the 8th day of moharram... In the next post see what happens on its culmination - the day of Ashura!

Moharram. It`s time for mourning!

The month of moharram has come. A month of mourning for the third Shia Imam Hossein and his family cruelly killed in Karbala on the day of Ashura. I won`t go into details about his life and this particular event. I`d rather tell you how Tehran (and I`d say the whole Iran) changes when the holy month of moharram comes.

Streets of Tehran which are always full of people wearing black clothes, but during moharram (and especially first 10 days that precede the day of Ashura) their amount doubles. Most of them are religious young men, small businesses` owners, shopkeepers who`d like to share their grief and feel themselves a part of the community.

All over the city black-and-green flags with the words of mourning are run up. Passing by some small shops you can hear so-called “nouheh” (rhythmic mourning speeches which are sometimes poems and really sound like songs) about Imam Hossein and the tragedy. Some even use it as a ringtone!

Iranians produce a great amount of moharram-related products like black-and-green flags, banners with the messages of grief addressed to Imam Hossein, huge speakers (which are used to broadcast nouheh), black T-shirts with some writings about Imam Hossein or just simple black clothing and lots of other stuff.

Read more on moharram in Tehran next time!